Pre IVA MOT

I have an IVA date for 2nd May at Kidderminster so thought it best to take the car through a dummy MOT test in advance.
And what a nice sunny day to pick!

The guys at F1 Autocentre in Kidderminster were really helpful and gave it a good safety check.

The good news is the brakes - including handbrake which seems problematic on AK's all passed easily. I'm using the latest pulley system design
The emissions on the SBC 350 ended up OK - well under on CO, very close on HC. They were good enough to test this several times and each time it improved - suggestion is  as the engine beds in it improves but would certainly benefit from an expert tune - if I can find one!

On the to do list - 

Slight leak from front brake flexy. - easy fix
Rear brake flexies need re-routing to prevent touching body on compression. - Looks straightforward.
Nearside front wheel touching inside of wheel arch (engine side) on full right lock. Left is no problem. Not sure whats happened here as I checked this previously and didn't seem to be a problem. I guess I'll need to insert a rack limit restrictor. The other thing I noticed was on full right lock - the steering seemed to over-steer - i.e. not self centering. I'm thinking the lock restriction should sort that out.
Headlights - tester said he would pass them at MOT - but they are right on the limit - bizarrely for rotation. In other words I've somehow mounted both headlights about 5 degrees clockwise. Easily solved!

Things I noticed on route to MOT station - car was quite jerky/snatchy at low speeds but I'll put that down to bedding in and me getting used to it.
Very soft and bouncy at the back end - so I need to study up how to stiffen up the GAZ adjustable dampers and will probably raise the rear ride height a little.

On the problem list - 

I failed to calibrate the Speedhut Speedometer on the way to the test so need to sort this out as a priority. Most likely a cabling issue.


So at this point I've got plenty of boxes ticked for the IVA but panic will soon set in!

IVA Booked!

So - I've finally felt confident enough to book the IVA test and the date is 2nd May!
The next 2 weeks will be fraught with last minute panics and tweaks I've no doubt and I'm hoping to slot in an MOT test in between. I don't actually need an MOT test for legal reasons but the test will confirm (or not!) that the basics are all OK such as headlamp aim, brakes and emissions, plus I'd be looking to get a proper tracking alignment done at the same time.

Completing the forms for IVA is a bit of a chore but you can now download and submit the forms on-line from the DVLA website.

The forms are IVA 1C - Application and IVA 4 - Amateur Build declaration

The process is you download the forms, complete them and submit them.  You also need to submit copies of your build receipts ( major items such as Kit, Engine and Brakes , your engine age certificate ( if you are using a re manufactured engine) plus photos of your build process.
If you use the on-line system, be aware that its fussy about file types and has maximum file sizes.

The DVLA then apprarise the information you have sent and - if all ok - they send you an e-mail requesting payment (£450) and the opportunity to book a test.

This took about a week, then I called up and paid by credit card and booked an appointment at Kidderminster quite easily.

So I'm now putting together the full pack I need to take with me to the IVA  which includes originals of all documents, more build photos, certificates for fuel hoses, imobiliser etc.

Next couple of weeks will be busy!

General fit out

So, spurred on by the impending IVA changes there has been considerable progress!

I've refitted the windscreen and roll hoops - hopefully for the last time.
One thing to note is that when the interior door/side finishers are fitted, you can't get to the screen pillar bolts - certainly not easily. If this ever has to come out there's a good chance of having to remove and refit the finishers and redo the carpeting - so keep some spare.
Before fitting the screen I attached the centre stay I got from Brasscraft. This simply hooks over the top rail of the screen, attaches with a small bracket at the bottom with two small grub-screws then you can tension it with a nut under the bracket. One problem I had was once the screen was fitted, the assembly became slack and needed the small nut tightening. I challenge you to have a spanner that can get to it! I ended up making a special tool out of some scrap steel sheet.
One other thing to consider is the  bracket offers two holes that can be used to fix to the body. I fitted a couple of slotted screws and nylocks to hold this in place . Its difficult to drill the holes with the windscreen in place so I managed to drill them from below. Its well worth fixing the bracket to teh body as it increases the solidity of the screen a lot.

For the roll hoops the biggest issue I had was with the escutcheons.i elected to drill through the body and fix them with raised-slotted stainless steel screws with nylock nuts. In hindsight this would have been easier with self tappers. The other thing to consider is the orientation of the 4 holes relative to the body. I arranged mine in a leading diamond pattern - i.e. with the diagonal in the direction of the car. This caused some problems in getting a screwdriver in due to the curvature of the rear hoop leg and made it really hard to fit the retaining nut on the front of the two forward legs as its in the small space in the body roll. So my advice would be use self tappers and orientate the hole pattern two either side of each hoop leg.


For both the screen and the roll hoops I've sealed them from underneath with silicon to prevent leaks.

I've also fitted the rear view mirror I got from S&J Motors. I think theirs looks best as some others have agricultural looking joints. It also comes with a soft surround that works for the IVA.





Now once I'd got these fitted its was time to try out the swanky new cover we got at the Classic Car show at the NEC. It was a bit dear but the missus picked it so all her fault!

So the next thing I did was plumb the car ready for a fire extinguisher system. I've read a few horror stories recently where some guys have been caught out with electrical or engine fires so having spent a load of money already it seemed a good investment to spend another £200 or so on a fitted system. After some research I bought a 4 litre SPA system from Merlin Motorsports. Its a AAAF water/foam based system that fits in the boot ( between to roll hoops) and is manually operated with a toggle handle and cable. There are automatic versions but too risky for me - I like to be in control! The key actions at this stage of the build were to run the pipework from the boot to the engine bay and to fit the nozzles. Ive run the pipework from the boot via the offside wheel arch then through the sill then up behind the dash. From there I've aimed one nozzle at the fuse box then two nozzles through the firewall into the engine bay - one each side of the engine. I'm not fitting the release handle or cylinder this side of the IVA as I doubt the T-handle will pass the radius test.

One of the fire extinguisher nozzles in engine bay

Extinguisher nozzle aimed at fuse box. 

Next up was finishing the heater.

Heat shield fitted

Now after the last engine run I noticed there was some leakage from the heater hose and as I'm using an internally mounted heater from T7, this means any leakage drips onto the tunnel and potentially into the interior. So I removed the heater and found a crack in one of the hoses I'd fitted - easy fix. To deal with the potential for future leaks I mage a drip tray out of aluminium angle and sikaflex to seal it, then drilled some drain holes in the top of the tunnel in case of future issue.

While I was at it I fitted a heat shield on the front of the heater matrix to protect the instruments and cabling from direct contact with the hot matrix. The heat shield is perforated and spaced from the matrix to allow decent airflow.

Drip tray and drain

So then onto the job I've been putting off - the carpets!

The build manual suggests a fitting order and I'd say it'd definitely the way to do it. i borrowed another idea from Andy Menzies and cut some 6mm MDF to fit on the floor rails to eliminate the bumps in the carpet you would get. These were treated with varnish to help when ( not if!) I get rained on in future.

Once done the first bit is the rear cover. I must have measured this about 6 times before I was brave enough to cut it as its about £200 quids worth.In the end I made a paper template to use as a cutting pattern and all was well. To fit it I used acetone to de-grease both the fibreglass and the material then used the supplied contact adhesive on both surfaces and waiting until its nearly dry before offering up. Now this glue is pretty powerful stuff - both for sticking and for causing hallucinations! reminded me of my old Airfix days! So you have to place it perfectly as there's no adjustment. Now I recon that those guys who chose to fully carpet the rear valance must have one heck of a game doing this as its a big piece to manage.

Showing MDF spacers and rear cover

So once done I cut and fitted the bits of carpet that finish the rear valance and all starting to come together.

One of the awkward bits was fitting the tunnel cover. My missus had elected to pay extra and have this leather topped - I have to admit it does improve the finished look.

The technique I came up with was to glue and fit one side initially the stretch it over the tunnel, trim to size then glue and fit on the other. If you try to do it all in one pass - its likely to be a sticky mess.

fixing second side of tunnel cover

Once all carpets in I have to say it really moves the whole job to another level and I couldt help but do a test fit of the seats and dash!

So to make it even better I fitted the gear lever gaiter and trim ring I got from S&J motors. This is fixed with self tappers. The gear knob was £10 from E-bay.

 Next job was to finally fit the handbrake lever. Now I'd always had a problem with getting the handbrake warning light to operate correctly. What was happening was that when the handbrake was applied, If you fold the lever down, the handbrake warning light went out - which is not correct.
To prevent this i fitted a small bracket ( the silver bit in the picture below) This stops the lever from going too far down so it doesn't depress the switch and has the added benefit that the handle is held just above the carper - making it easier to grab.

showing handbrake lever stop (silver bit at front)

Next up was the seat-belts. I went for Willans Short Tails ( suitable for Westfields) and I'm very happy with them. AK provide some neat finisher covers for the top mount.

Panic Stations

Well it appears our friends in the government are planning to wipe out a large swathe of the UK kit car industry by changing the rules for emissions testing. As it stands, your engine is assessed for emissions based on its original data of manufacture. This allows us to use a period-relevant engine when building our cars, thus avoiding fuel injection and catalytic converters. The government proposal is to require all kit cars presented to IVA to be assessed to current emissions regulations. Now it might be possible to get a carburetor engine through the current Euro5 regulations, but only by adding catalytic converters at some additional cost. When Euro6 comes out - its a bridge too far for carburetors. It seems the government are 'consulting' on this proposal but it looks like a done deal from what I'm reading. Hopefully the kit car community, manufacturers and supply chain will rally round and lobby to prevent this from becoming law. In terms of emissions, I'd bet our carburetor motors are a fraction of 1% of the total and I recon my neighbors bonfire is a worse culprit than me!

Anyhow I guess I'm one of the lucky ones as I'm nearing completion and there's a good chance I can get to IVA under current rules  - as long as I get my finger out!

Rebuild after paint

Now for the part I've been looking forward to - refitting all the shiny bits for hopefully the last time!

I've started at the front with the overriders and lights and fitted the nose cone vents. I know these are individual taste but my missus thinks they are great!

Fitting the vents is quite straightforward using body filler and holding them in place until the filler goes off. Then apply more filler underneath to ensure they stay put.

One thing that other builders have said - and they are right - is the fear factor of working on the car after paint. No more leaving tools on the wings!

Dashboard

Fitting the dials, switches and lamps took a surprising amount of time but the good news was I could do this in the dining room rather than in a cold garage!

Some of the holes in the fibreglass came up too small to tuck the leather through with the switches but this was fixed by carefully opening up the holes with the Dremmel. Its not too scary to do as the padding separates the leather from the fibreglass.

Here's my first attempt at wiring everything up. Not as neat as some I've seen and even though its going to be hidden its on my list for rework.

Paint

It’s back, and a great job done by Option 1 Sportscars.

We are very pleased with choice of colour, Aston Martin Diavolo Red which has some depth to it and works well with the curves. This is a change from our original thinking of a candy colour but we were persuaded to avoid the three stage complex colours as you could be looking at a total respray if a repair needed. Based on the result this looks like good advice.