Getting ready for final body fitting

After the relative success of getting the engine running I thought it would be a good idea to do another test fit of the body. Bear in mind up to now I've not had the body on with the engine in situ. I also had a nagging doubt that the bonnet would close over the air cleaner.

So ripped out all the temporary wiring that took me so long to work out, removed the side pipes (which took a bit of persuasion) and enlisted the neighbors to help me and my mate, Bill Holden, to lift the body on. This turned out a bit trickier with the motor in and the technique seems to be slightly higher at the back to ease the footwells past the exhaust manifolds.

And here it is:

header tank mounted too high - adjusted the support rails to drop below the bonnet line

Couldn't resist fitting the headlamps.

All bolted down so next job is to start cutting the holes for the side exhaust.

A bit of fine tuning

Well after the relative success of first engine fire I set about trying to get the engine running smoothly before making it all harder with the body on.

I bought a new timing light - this time one of the more advanced type that allows you to program in the advance required. Its so much easier than trying to work out where 15 degrees advance is with this gadget rather than guessing some point off the end of the pulley gauge. The unit I got also has a digital rev counter which comes in handy when setting the idle speed.

When I got the engine running originally, I managed to get the idle speed down to about 850 rpm as recommended, however I noticed there was fuel dripping from the venturi boosters which didn't seem right. Several hours of research later and the main reason appeared to be excess fuel pressure. Apparently these Edelbrock carb's don't like more than 6.5 psi. I'm running a Carter electric pump rated at 6psi so that shouldn't have been an issue.  Just to check things out I added yet another gadget to the portfolio with a Draper Vacuum gauge which also serves as a fuel pressure tester. This measured the Carter output at 5.5psi so well within the spec for the carb.

A bit more research suggested the idle circuit could be the culprit. If its not feeding the system suitably to hold an idle, you have to set the idle screw such that the throttle plates are open more than necessary, thus using the primary boosters to supply idle fuel. When I checked out my setup, the throttle plates were definitely open more than you would expect. So, approach I took was to disassemble the carb and used an airline to blow out all jets and passages including the idle mixture threads. While I was at it, I dismantled all the choke bits as they are completely unnecessary on these engines and just get in the way.
Anyhow, put is all back together and started her up - and good news - managed to set the idle down to 850 with the throttle pretty much closed and no drips from the boosters! Happy days!

After this success, I hooked up the vacuum gauge and measured the vacuum at 15"Hg which appears to be ballpark for a medium tuned engine.I played around with the idle mixture screws as per the carb manual until engine was running smoothly with no stumbling.

I think there's more fiddling to do with this setup in future but I reckon I now have a good base.

It works!

The day had come to start the motor and I must admit to some trepidation over what might happen with all the bits I had assembled and setup.

Over the last few days I'd been pondering the startup process, read the notes supplied by Roadcraft thoroughly and surveyed the motor and ancillaries to make sure there were no issues.

First thing I noticed was that the water temperature sender and cable, No's 4, 5 and 6 spark plug boots were very close to the exhaust headers. So a quick search on line and an order followed to Thermalvelocity for some thermal boot covers.

Next step was to use the oil priming tool provided by Roadcraft to pressurise the oil system and check the oil pressure gauge and low oil pressure light. So remove the distributor, fix the tool to a variable speed drill, ignition on and rotate the oil pump clockwise. And great news - oil light went out and gauge read 50 psi.

Having taken the distributor out, the static timing needed to be reset. I already had the engine set to TDC on No1 cylinder from previously, so it was a case of rotating the distributor so that the rotor lined up with plug lead 1 on the distributor cap. This is a bit of a fiddle but from what I had read, as long as this was in line, the motor would start but would need to be advanced soon after.

Next job - connected up the timing light to sort the timing when started.

Removed the vacuum advance tube from the distributor and blocked the pipe.
Blocked the Servo input pipe on the carburetor.
Removed the Header tank pressure cap to help with any airlocks in the cooling system when the water pump started to operate.

Next part was the fuel system. I gradually filled the tank to check for any leaks on the pipework, then switched on ignition to check the fuel pump and immediately hit two problems:
1) leak on the output hose connection spayed fuel everywhere - easily fixed
2) flooding of carburetor - basically fuel was being pumped constantly into the venturis which didn't seem right! First thought was that my fuel pump was too powerful and I might need a pressure regulator. I have a Carter electric pump, and checking the spec, is rated at a max of 6.5 psi so was in tolerance for the Edelbrock carb. A bit more research pointed to the float valves not closing off the fuel supply so whipped the top off the carb, removed the floats, and removed the float valve pins, cleaned everything out as best I could then put all back together. Retested the fuel pump and problem solved - float valves were holding back the fuel supply.

A final check to make sure no loose cables, fire extinguisher close by and I gave the honor of pressing the Start button to the wife while I got ready to control the throttle.

And... it only went and started first time! - and what a noise!!. Sara was only three feet away and we had to shout to communicate. The IVA noise test might be a challenge!

I'd memorised the Roadcraft instructions and set the idle speed screw to 1500rpm, checking the timing light and adjusted the advance to approx 20 degrees as per the guide. This smoothed things out quite a bit and then spent the next 30 minutes varying the speed between 1500 and 2500 rpm which is whats recommended to run the cam in. Oil pressure all good  - around 45psi, no water leaks ( Header cap was fitted soon after start.). Incredible heat off the exhausts - good job I fitted the thermal plug boots.
Water Temperature was getting up above 220 degrees F and fan cutting in and seemed to be holding it, however I was ready with the watering can to cool the radiator a bit if things got too hot.

After 30 minutes, I tried to drop the revs down to 850 to set the initial timing between 10-14 degrees but the idle was really lumpy and felt as if it was going to stall. Unfortunately my timing light packed up at this point so decided to call it a day.

Overall a great milestone achieved and plenty of reading to do about fine tuning the carb and timing for the next attempt.

Nearly Ready to Start it....

Well progress has slowed a little with the bad weather and cold temperatures in the garage, plus the missus taking issue with me having any heating on!

Anyhow, I have managed to progress to the stage where I'm nearly ready for the first start.

The main tasks have been fitting the header tank and hoses then making up temporary wiring to ensure all the basic engine functions are covered.


Header Tank

As per my last post, I decided to go off-piste with this item and not use the expensive (but beautiful) AK Stainless item. I might decide to change to this later on but at this stage I need to keep costs down.
Lots of research and I decided on an alloy item from OBP. Their standard unit had the outlets in the wrong place but they do a bespoke service and modified one to suit for around £80 all in.

I made a couple of mounting brackets out of aluminium square section I had lying around and used a modular adapter from CBS for the junction between the top hose and the header pipe.















 This fitting has the temperature sensor for the cooling fan and I drilled and tapped the side of the fitting to accept a CBS hose outlet. So all in all its cost around £120 for all the parts, over £300 for the 'proper' one.

After this the next job was filling with antifreeze. Lots of different opinions on the web over what sort of antifreeze to use. When I was a lad it was Bluecol or nothing! So now I know all about OAT, Silicates, Pink, Blue and goodness knows what else - oh , don't forget water-less coolant!  In the end I settled for Halfords Blue ready mixed which looks a good compromise for mixed alloy/iron engines.

What you forget is how big these engines are and how much coolant they take. Not far off 15 litres is the answer. I had one or two minor leaks from the hoses and from the temperature sender on the head that I hadn't tightened properly but all sorted now.
I raised the front of the car as high as I dared using the engine crane during the fill up to help getting the air out of the system. - Hope it worked!


Electrics

I decided to lash up my own temporary starter loom just for the engine test.
I made up a drawing with the basic plot, identifying all the connections needed and cable capacities. This enabled me to tick off each leg as I went.
I made a small mounting panel to house the various switches and gauges during the test run and a small stand for mounting the electric fuel pump. Some folks fit these to the inner chassis rail in front of the diff, however the carter unit I have is the wrong shape to easily fit there. Mine is going on the bulkhead wall around the transmission tunnel, nearside as have a few other builders.

I realised I would need:

• Ignition Key Switch
• Starter Button
• Electric Fan, temperature switch and relay.
• Fuel Pump
• Starter relay
• Oil pressure warning light.
• Ignition warning light
• Battery - 072
• Battery cables
• Power to Distributor and fuel pump.
• Power feed from Alternator to battery
• Rev Counter
• Oil Pressure gauge
• Water Temperature gauge

List of connections:

300 AMP Red Battery cable to from Battery +ve to Starter Motor Main terminal.
300 AMP Black Battery cable from battery -ve to Chassis ( via a battery isolator switch)
100 AMP Red cable from Alternator Output to Starter Motor Main terminal.
8 Amp cable with 5Amp fuse from Alternator Output to Alternator Input.

Rev Counter output cable to rev Counter ( Set rev counter to V8 pulse pattern)

Keyed Ignition Switch:
27 Amp cable from Battery +ve to Battery input terminal on key switch
Created a switched live feed (27A) from the auxiliary connection on Keyed Ignition Switch.
Use this feed for any services that operate with Ignition ON.
8 Amp cable to Fuel Pump +ve
8 Amp cable from Fuel Pump -ve to chassis.
8 Amp cable to Distributor input.
30 Amp relay ( for cooling fan) 17 AMP cable from Battery +ve to load input on relay.
17 Amp cable from Relay load output to Fan input.
17 Amp cable from Fan output to chassis.
8 Amp cable from switched live to fan thermostat input.
8 Amp cable from fan thermostat output to relay switch input.
8 amp cable from relay switch output to chassis.
8 Amp cable from Alternator Charge light terminal to a red Indicator lamp.
8 Amp cable from Indicator lamp to switched live.

Starter Button
8 Amp cable from switched live to Starter Button input.
8 Amp cable from Starter Button output to 50 AMP Starter Relay switched input.
8 Amp cable from 50 Amp Starter Relay switched output to chassis.
27 Amp cable from Battery +ve to 50 Amp relav load input.
27 Amp cable from 50 Amp relay load output to Starter Solenoid.

Instruments
Rev Counter - live feed connected to switched live.
Rev Counter  - earth wire to chassis
Water Temperature gauge - link cable to temperature sender.
Water Temperature gauge - live feed to switched live, earth wire to chassis.
Oil pressure  - link cable to pressure sender
Oil pressure - live feed to switched live, earth wire to chassis.
Oil pressure warning light - 8 Amp cable from pressure switch to warning light.
8 Amp cable from warning light to switched live.

A bit messy  - taken prior to fitting cable ties - but it all works!

Temporary starter panel

So after all that Its off to get some fuel!

Oil pressure gauge sender and warning light

This bit proved quite a challenge.

There are two take off points on the Chevy SBC, one is a 1/4 NPT just above the oil filter and the other a 1/8 NPT on the top face at the rear of the block.
neither are particularly accessible but I decided that the top one was the best prospect.

As I have two senders to accommodate I needed a T-Piece to attach them. This took a load of research to find an adapter that was narrow enough to clear the inlet manifold. I eventually found one from CBS. This one is 18mm across flats and I thought would fit. In the event it turned out that I had to file the bit nearest the screw in end as it was catching against the
manifold.

Modified T-Piece

Next problem was that with the sender fitted in the top. the assembly was too long to fit underneath the distributor.....

So - plan B - I purchased a 1/8 NPT tap from Amazon and drilled and tapped another outlet on the shank.

As I'd filed the sides down a little, it started to rust in no time so a quick coat of Hammerite was needed.

And finally!

Getting ready for Engine Start

Prop Shaft

Finally got round to ordering from Bailey Morris who were most helpful and got this in the post within a week. They provided the yoke for my Tremec 'box as part of the assembly, the whole deal including postage was around £270.
The tail-end is bored to fit over the diff pinion spigot but proved a little tight so needed a light sanding with the Dremmel to open up the bore of the coupling flange. The dimension of the spigot is needed by Bailey Morris when they are making your shaft and it turned out that they had provided exactly what I'd measured, I just needed to allow a little for clearance.
The flange is attached with M12 cap screws  high tensile 12.9. I've used nylocks to secure them but will research this a little more in case there needs to be a special fitting for this job.
















Side Pipes

Been putting this off for a while but a job I knew I'd struggle with was the Exhaust Side pipe fitting. I quickly realised that this was a two man job so I arranged for my mate Bill Holden to pop up and lend a hand.
Jon at AK advised that a good plan is to grease the pipe joints to ease the process as these will need to be on and off a few times during the build.
Even with plenty of grease it took two of us to force the damn things on and I'm now dreading the time when I need to remove them again for body-on.
Once they were on, we fitted the hangers with M10 set screws after by drilling and tapping. I've used two set screws per hanger. The rubber mounts are secured with standard nuts for now so as not to waste nylocks given they will be on and off a few times.
The distance from side pipe to chassis rail is between 85-90mm according to my research on the forum.
I've covered the fitted exhausts with bubble wrap for now to try and avoid any unfortunate dents should I drop something!




Plumbing

As this was over the xmas break, Bill brought his goddaughter Alice Boote with him who is a 6th form student interested in a career in engineering. She turned up mad keen to have a go a to working on the car so this is turning out to be a bit of a community project!. Its encouraging that more girls are considering engineering as a career so I hope my little project hasn't put her off too much. Unfortunately Alice turned up nursing a bad back so we gave her some lighter duties, fitting the heater rails and filling the gearbox oil. The heater rails are quite a neat solution from AK, fitting on the inside of the offside rocker cover. Getting at the rocker cover bolts with it in place is another matter so it was handy that Alice had small fingers for this bit!

Alice Boote - introducing youngsters to American V8 engines

Heater rail plumbing

AK supply a couple of lengths of hose and clips for fitting the heater take offs to the heater rail.

















The next part of the plumbing is the header tank. AK supply a lovely looking stainless one which unfortunately costs over £300 so I've done a bit of research around alternatives and found an alloy one from OBP for around £60. The standard one doesn't have the outlets in the best positions but OBP do a bespoke service so I sent then a mock-up of how I'd like the unit modified and I  now have one on order  - and only £15 or so for the mods. This also means you have to be a little more creative with the top hose fitting as you don't get the AK T-Piece that comes with their kit. I've bought a modular connector from CBS which has a fitting for the Fan Switch and I plan to fit a hose tail to the side of the unit to run to the header tank.

More on this soon!

Radiator

Finally got round to fitting the radiator and electric fan.

Not too much trauma with this.
I loose fitted the radiator initially to work out where the electric fan would be positioned. The 16" fan kit I have came with a variety of fittings including the ones that tie through the core. I didn't fancy those and managed to work out some bracketry to fix the fan cowl to the chassis.






I used some rubber tap washers around the locating pegs and top bolts